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Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Lapcha Pass

Duration : 24 Days | Travel style : Active Adventures

  • Island peak climbing
  • Mera Peak Climbing
  • Mera Peak climbing
  • peak climbing in Nepal

Trip Highlights

  • Country

    Nepal

  • Duration

    24 Days

  • Max. Altitude

    21831 ft./ 6,654 m

  • Group Size

    1- 15 People

  • Grade

    Adventurous

  • Best Season

    Mar to May / Sep to Dec

  • Accommodation

    Hotel / Lodge / Camp

  • Transportation

    Flight / Private Vehicle

Mera Peak, the highest trekking point, stands at an elevation of 6476m/21246 feet and lies in the edge of Khumbu region. The summit offers the magnificent view of five of the highest peaks of the world, which includes Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. Island Peak at an elevation of 6174 m also lies in the Khumbu region amidst the World’s highest snow capped giants. These two peaks are very close to each others in terms of the distance, yet very far due to the chains of mountains lying between these peaks. You will need to cross through challenging Amphu Lapcha Pass (5600m) to conquer Mera Peak and Island Peak in a single itinerary, which might be the toughest adventure in the genre of Peak climbing. This may not require a high profile mountaineering experience but is certain to test your physical and endurance capabilities. Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha Pass is a sheer adventure for the physically fit and healthy trekkers who dream and dare to conquer the summit of two highly applauded peaks of the Khumbu region in a short period of time.

After the sightseeing tour in the various ancient cultural Heritage sites in Kathmandu, an early morning flight from the domestic airport in Kathmandu takes us all the way to Luka, popularly known as Gateway to Everest. From there we start our trekking journey walking through various small settlements of local Sherpas, who carry the legacy of mountaineering profession. We slowly start to gain altitude and pass through Zatrwa La pass and walk through Thuli Kharka-Thangnak-Khare route to reach Mera Peak Base Camp. We conquer the Mera Peak and return to Base camp. From there we deviate from our route and cross through challenging Amphu Lapcha Pass and enter the beautiful Hinku and Imja tse valley. We reach the Island Peak Base Camp and finally conquer the summit. We return from Dengboche-Tengboche-Namche-Lukla route, the famous Everest route. During the summit of the two peaks, required mountaineering trainings are provided by our professional guides and ropes are facilitated in the exposed and demanding sections of the summit. Crossing Amphu Lapcha Pass is also a matter of great concern, so it is also treated with same safety measures.

Global Holidays Adventure boasts of the high quality service and wisely designed packaged trip to Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing via Amphu Lampcha Pass. We have been succesful operating this Peak Climbing trip since a decade back. What make us different are the hassle free quality service we offer to our clients, the wisely designed itineraries providing enough acclimatization days ensuring the proper health condition of the climbers and, above all, our highly successful and experienced Sherpa Guides, who have the guts and wits to face and tackle the various contingencies that may arise in the Himalayan region. Your safety is the prime concern of Global Holidays Adventure.

Itinerary

You can always customize this itinerary as per your preference.

1

Day

Arrival at Kathmandu Airport, Transfer to hotel (1350M/4,430ft).
You will be welcomed by our staff standing with your name-card in the airport arrival terminal and transferred to your hotel by the private vehicle. Small meeting about the trip in the evening.

Hotel (Breakfast Included) | Private Vehicle

2

Day

Preperation and breifings at the department of Tourism, Last minute shopping:
This day is separated as the preparation day. We will have short briefing about the up coming schedules and necessary papers will be managed in the department of tourism. Rest of the time you can buy your trekking equipments in the Thamel Market.

Hotel (Breakfast Included) | Private Vehicle

3

Day

We take morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla(2800m) trek to Chutanga(3050m). 4 hours walk.
An early breakfast, and you will be transferred to the domestic Airport in Kathmandu in a private vehicles. From there 45 minutes flight takes you to Lukla, one of the highest Airport and the gateway to Everest. From Lukla, we will start our trekking journey to reach all the way to Chutanga. The walk lasts about 4 hours.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included) | Flight/ Private Vehicle

4

Day

Trek from Chutanga to Tuli Kharka (Chatra-La) (3900m) via Zatrawa La Pass (4610m) and down trek to Khartitang at 3900m. 6 hours walk.
The trail crosses the Kalo Himal Ridge which separates the Khumbu from the Hinku Valley. Further ahead, we transverse a comfortable path showcasing a cairned notch on the ridge with a collection of prayer flags at an elevation of 4450m. En route we may encounter yak herders. The views across the Dudh Kosi towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal are very impressive and so is the view across the rolling foothills east of the Hinku Valley. Half an hour below the pass is a huge boulder which marks our campsite, Tuli Kharka.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

5

Day

Trek from Tuli Kharka to Kothe (4095m) – 5hrs.
Today, the trail descends the rock-strewn path leading to a fine vantage point of the Hinku valley where mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak become visible. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply into the Hinku valley. Enchanting panorama of Peak 43 and Kusum Kangguru unfolds as we bask in the splendor of nature surrounding us from the Hinku Valley. We experience the most exotic and delightful feelings as we walk past forests of pine and rhododendron. Finally we reach Kothe, which is our base for tonight.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

6

Day

Trek from Kothe to Thangnak (4,350m) – 5hrs.
After your breakfast, we will start walking through the pastures and you may find some Yak herders on the way. The walk goes along the ridge of Hinku valley. Whole day you will be overjoyed with the magnificent view of Mera peak, the first fine view of your quest. In Thangnak you will find old logdes and guest houses in few numbers.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

7

Day

Rest and acclimatization day at Thangnak. In the day you will visit Sabal Tsho Lake and take an acclimatization hike to the cairn (5271m) on the flank of Kusum Kangguru (6367m).
We utilize two days getting completely acclimatized. After proper rest, we can explore other adventure possibilities like strolling by Sabal Tsho, beautiful moraine-dammed lake which is hidden behind the Sabal Glacier and climbing a peak up to an altitude of nearly 5000m. We can also explore Hinku Nup Glacier which leads north toward Kangtaiga. The upper Hinku valley turns to the east at Tangnag, crossing the moraine of the Dig Glaciers.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

8

Day

Trek from Tangnang to Khare (5,045m). 3-3.5 hours walk.
As we walk away from Tangnag, the trail ascends to a wide grassy basin, popularly called Dig Kharka. We continue walking for hours. After a while, we arrive at Khare. There are many campsites at Khare and the most popular one is at the upper end of Khare lying beneath a group of boulders. We choose this site for camping. This campsite offers splendid vistas of huge north face of Mera, Hinku Shar Glacier and Mera La.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

9

Day

Trek and climb from Khare to high camp (5,780m): 5hrs walk.
Today after breakfast, we walk through boulder strewn course to reach Base Camp of Mera Peak. Upon reaching there after a short rest accompanied with our lunch, we start ice climbing training with our climbing guide. Inexperienced climbers need to learn much more today. After about 1-2 hours training, we go to Mera La. We will be taking the route to High Camp through Mera La, we rest at our camp at high camp today admiring the eye-catching views the area offers.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

10

Day

Summit Day; Mera High Camp to Summit (6,654m) and trek down to Kongmanima.
Early in the morning at around 2am after breakfast, we advance towards the summit. By sunrise we can reach up to 6000m. With Incessant attempts, we finally scale the summit. From the summit, we can embrace the most spectacular view of at least five of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks and can be seen most of the spectacular views of Mt. Everest (8,848m/29,021ft), Cho-Oyu (8,210m/26,928ft), Lhotse (8,516m/27,935ft), Makalu (8,463m/27,760ft), Kangchenjunga (8,586m/28,165ft), Nuptse (7,855m/25,765ft), Chamlang (7,319m/24,010ft), Baruntse (7 ,129m 23,383ft) Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,343ft) Kangtega (6,779m/22,235) and many peaks over six thousanders too. After achieving the summit, we retrace our steps down to high camp. After having a rest accompanied by some hot soups/tea at the high camp, we will continue down to Kongmanima for the night's rest. We will find this day really long but inspirational one in our life.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

11

Day

One day spare in case of Bad weather during the summit day.
This day is a spare day in case of any kinds of weather in contingencies in the previous day. There is no such guarantee that we can get quite a favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 09), so this day is used as a contingency in case if we are unable to summit the Mera on day 09 due to bad weather condition or some other reasons. If weather became exceptionally unfavorable we wisely have to postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 09 for toady (Day 10). Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

12

Day

Trek from Kongmanima to Seto Pokhari (4500m/14,763ft.) -06hrs.
Today, We head up into the upper yak pastures of this incredible remote valley. All morning the great flank of Chamlang dominates our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The terrain is remarkably benign, especially considering we are actually heading directly into the very epicenter of the highest group of mountains in the world. The valley floor remains broad and straight, only gradually rising to the blind alley of peaks ahead. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards are none other than Everest and Lhotse.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

13

Day

Trek from Seto Pokhari to Amphu lapcha base camp (5,600m/18370ft) -07hrs,
We trek through the high altitude route from Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. This is one of the remotest parts of the Himalayas. We rarely meet any trekkers en route except if it is very high touristic season. We climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari (White Lake), the first of a series of lakes that occupy the upper Honku Basin. Experience the wilderness of the Honku Valley. On the right is Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces, the Honku Valley is true mountain wilderness.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

14

Day

Trek from Amphu Lapcha South Base Camp to Amphu Lapcha North Base camp(5200M/17060ft.) via Amphu Lapcha pass (5,845m/19176ft.) 8-9hrs,
Starting from the South base of Amphu Lapcha, today is an early morning climb. The climb involves steep sections on rock and ice. It`s better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable, i.e., before sunlight melts the snow. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

15

Day

Trek from Amphu Lapcha north Base camp to Island Peak base camp (5,087m/16690ft.)-04 hours walk and preparations for climbing Island peak.
Today is an easier day as compared to the earlier day. We don’t need fixed ropes as in the Amphu Lapcha base. We enjoy the scenic beauty of surrounding and reach the Island Base camp. We make our final preparations to conquer the summit of Island Peak.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

16

Day

Climb Island Peak (6165m/20,226) and back to base Camp, 15hrs.
Today is you most important day that you are going to do your final destination summit to Island Peak (6187m). Crossing the gully above the camp the trail makes a climb for another hour to a narrow ridge, leading on to the glacier. Here it is time to rope-up and put on our crampons as the most interesting part of the climb begins with the glacier crossing. This is followed by the steep snow slope that leads onto the summit ridge. This ridge is wonderfully airy and on reaching the summit we have stunning close-up views of the south face of Lhotse looming over us whilst in the other direction, there are more dramatic mountain views. We descend along the same route, down to base camp.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

17

Day

Spare day in case of contingencies during the summit day.
There is no such guarantee that we can get quite a favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 13), so this day is used as a contingency in case if we are unable to summit the Island on day 13 due to bad weather condition or some other reasons. If weather became exceptionally unfavorable we wisely have to postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 13 for toady (Day 14). Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day.

Tent Camp (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

18

Day

Trek from Island Peak base camp to Pangboche(3985m/13,074ft) 6hrs.
Leaving the mountains behind us our descent takes us through various towns of Dingboche, Orsho, Shomare and Lower Pangboche to reach the suspension bridge over the Imja Khola River to ascend gradually through Debuche and then to Pangboche.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

19

Day

Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,286ft) 05hrs.
From Pangboche we descend steeply through beautiful forest of juniper, rhododendron and fir to Phunkitenga. After a welcome break and perhaps a cup of tea we cross the Dudh Kosi River and ascend to Trashinga. From here the trail contours high above the valley through to Shanasa, where we have the option of visiting Kunde and Khumjung villages before returning to Namche Bazaar - our stop for the night.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

20

Day

Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9,317ft) 7hrs.
This is our last day of trekking, finally we return to Lukla where the trek began, which will seem like a lifetime ago. Enjoying time to reflect on the trek as a group and the personal achievement of all those who took part. In the afternoon is free to wander around, relax or perhaps enjoy a hot shower! In the evening we enjoy a farewell dinner, followed by a few celebratory drinks and dancing with our Sherpa companions.

Guesthouse (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Included)

21

Day

Early in the morning fly from Lukla to Kathmandu, which takes about 35 minutes transfer to hotel. Leisure and shopping day in Kathmandu.
Early in the morning you will return to Kathmandu from Lukla in a 35 minutes flight. Give a last view to the Himalayan region, somewhere in the middle lies the beautiful peak whose summit you conquered. Rest of the time you can relax in your Hotel of walk around the Thamel streets buying souvenirs for your friends and relatives.

Hotel (Breakfast Included) | Flight/ Private Vehicle

22

Day

Explore and shopping in Kathmandu. Farewell-Celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening. 
In the day time, you will enjoy a guided tour to various culturally significant Heritage sites enlisted by UNESCO. You will visit the popular Swayambhunath (Monkey temple) and Bauddhanath Stupa, two of the biggest Stupas in the World. Along with that you visit the holy PashupatiNath Temple, where you will the witness the Hindu cremation ceremony. You will also enjoy the several medieval cities and Palaces in the Kathmandu Valley. There will a farewell dinner party in one of the typical Nepali restaurants with cultural programming.

Hotel (Breakfast Included) | Flight/ Private Vehicle

23

Day

Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.
Global Holidays Adventure representative will transfer you to the Airport for your Final Departure

Cost Details

"So What you are paying For?"

We would like to explain to you. We are a local company providing world-wide travelers with internationally qualified services. We provide you with the lowest cost possible for fully inclusive trips that have no hidden fees. We guarantee your safety, satisfaction, and long-lasting memories of your experience.

Cost Include
  • International & domestic airport transfers as per the itinerary.
  • 3 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin sharing basis on BB (Bed and Breakfast) plan.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) during the trek and climbing period.
  • Full board Accommodation of Lodges, Guesthouses in Twin Sharing bases during the trek and tent will be available during the climbing period.
  • All camping equipment in Base camp.
  • Flight Ticket from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu for member and Staff.
  • Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System) Permit.
  • Mera and Island Peak Climbing Permit.
  • Necessary staff during the trekking and climbing period With Experience Guide and Porter.
  • 2:1 and 5:2 experienced Government license holder Climbing guide during climbing period as per itinerary
  • Facility of Food, accommodation, salary, insurance, equipment and medicine for all trekking staff.
  • Group medical supplies (First Aid medical kit will be available).
  • One tent will be available in the Base camp for 2 people on shared basis.
  • High altitude food and all climbing crew will be available above base camp.
  • Necessary fixed and dynamic ropes will be available during climbing period.
  • Necessary kitchen crew will be available in base camp.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and extend visa service(if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu before departure.
Cost Exclude
  • International airfare and Nepal visa Fees.
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Travel insurance which covers emergency Rescue and Evacuation.
  • All alcoholic and cold drinks.
  • Personal trekking and climbing Equipment.
  • Any others expenses which are not mentioned on 'Price Includes' section.

Required Equipments

This is a guideline to help what equipment are necessary for trekking and peak climbing. Normally personal equipment and items are individual choice but the most important face that one should have enough gears to tackle the weather in Himalaya.

During the trek heavy items will be carried by our porters or yaks. And the personal belongings which you need for daily or frequent purposes like money, water bottle, rain gear, camera, sun-cream and toilet paper etc. are to be carried by yourself in the backpack. We will provide complimentary water proof duffel bag which you can use during the trek and is carried by porters. You can leave your non trekking items at the hotel or in our office and collect them after the trek.

Flowing gear list gives you some ideas that you can bring for the successful climbing.

Personal Climbing Gears:

  • 1 Ice axe
  • 1 Crampons
  • 1 Harness
  • 2 Tape slings.
  • Screwgate karabiners (2 lock, 2 unlock).
  • 1 Descender/eight figure.
  • 1 Plastic mountaineering boots.
  • 1 Ascender/Jhumar.
  • 1 Helmet.

Group Climbing Gears (Provide by Global Holidays Adventure):

  • Snow bar
  • Rope
  • Ice hammer
  • Ice screw

Head

  • Head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions.
  • Warm hat that covers your ears.
  • Good headlamp with extra batteries.
  • Sunglasses with UV protection.
  • Prescription sunglasses (if required)

Upper Body

  • Polypropylene shirts (1 half sleeve and 2 long sleeves).
  • Light weight thermal tops.
  • Fleece wind-stopper jacket or pullover.
  • Waterproof shell jacket.
  • Down vest and/or jacket (If you don't have then company will provide)
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable.

Hands

  • 1 pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves.
  • 1 pair of lightweight wool or fleece gloves.
  • 1 pair of mittens; consists of 1 Gore-Tex over mitt matched, waterproof, polar-fleece mitt liner.

Lower Body

  • Non-cotton underwear.
  • 1 pair of hiking shorts.
  • 1 pair of hiking trousers.
  • 1 pair of lightweight thermal bottoms.
  • 1 pair of fleece or woolen trousers.
  • 1 pair of waterproof shell pants, breathable fabric.

Feet

  • 2 pairs of thin, lightweight inner socks.
  • 2 pairs of heavy poly or wool socks.
  • 1 pair of hiking boots with spare laces.
  • 1 pair of trainers or running shoes and/or sandals.
  • Cotton socks.
  • Gaiters.

Sleeping

  • 1 sleeping bag 30 degree DC. (If you don't have sleeping Global Holidays Adventure will provide one good sleeping bag.)
  • Fleece sleeping bag liner.

Travel Bags

  • 1 medium rucksack or 1 large duffel bag (If you don't have we will give you one water proof bag)
  • Day pack/backpack of 35 to 50 liters for carrying your valuables, should have good shoulder padding
  • Small padlocks for duffel-kit bags
  • 2 large waterproof rucksack covers (optional)

Medical

  • Small, personal first-aid kit (simple and light).
  • Aspirin, first-aid tape, and plasters (Band-Aids)
  • 1 skin-blister repair kit.
  • Anti-diarrhea pills.
  • Anti-headache pills.
  • Cough and/or cold medicine.
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox or Acetylzolamide.
  • Stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc. Note: Do not bring sleeping pills as they are a respiratory depressant!
  • Water purification tablets or water filter.
  • 1 set of earplugs.

Practical Items 

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing-repair kit.
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box of matches.
  • 1 compass or GPS (optional)
  • 1 alarm clock/watch (optional)
  • 1 digital camera with extra cards and batteries.
  • Large Ziplocs.
  • 2 water bottles (1 liter each).
  • 1 small folding knife.
  • Binoculars (optional).
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks.

Toiletries items 

  • 1 medium-sized quick drying towel.
  • Toothbrush/paste (preferably biodegradable).
  • Multi-purpose soap (preferably biodegradable).
  • Deodorants.
  • Nail clippers.
  • Face and body moisturizer.
  • Female hygiene products.
  • Small mirror.

Extras or Luxuries items

  • Reading book.
  • Trail map/guide book.
  • Travel game i.e. chess, backgammon, scrabble, playing cards (to help you pass the time at teahouses and/or camps).
  • Voltage converter (from 220 to 110 ampere).
  • Plug adapter (2 round pegs to 2 flat pegs).
  • Lightweight pillow case (in case your teahouses provide you with pillows) or use your own stuff as a pillow.

Important documents and items

  • Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, airline tickets.
  • Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance.
  • Dollars in cash to purchas Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport.
  • Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines.
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